Imagine a horizon – an actual horizon, not hemmed in by buildings or mountains and you cycling in this beautiful landscape. Imagine the landscape – a gently rolling landscape of ancient hills and weathered forests. Kipling wrote of this, he called it the burning plains of Hindoostan. Mowgli faced Shere Khan here, the Hathi elders told of the tales of creation on this antique plateau, and the Bandar-log cavorted among its ruins and ravines. This is where you leave the Gangetic basin behind and start your gentle climb onto one of the most ancient landmasses on the planet – Gondwanaland. Here, you are on the north-west end of the Indian tectonic plate, at the entrance to the Vindhyachal Range. Here, if you pick up a rock by the wayside, so long as it has not been disturbed by human activity, it will probably predate any other you are likely to find by tens of millions of years. This is a landscape that overwhelms you, not by its tortured topography but by its majestic antiquity. This is not a geological battleground, it is the story of co-evolution.